Dave's Grill, Montauk, NYBy the docks on Montauk Harbor. Montauk, NY.
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Dining out on the East End is a controversial subject - perhaps second only to the environment. Those seeking a quick bite complain of a lack of appropriate eateries, while gastronomes fuss over not getting the right service or food for the price they have to pay. This summer, 17 new restaurants from Southampton to Montauk will attempt to satisfy both factions -- and everything in between.

Contrived, but not tacky, might be the way to describe Dave's Grill, a bit closer to the dockside action in what used to be the Viking Grill, another old '50s structure, now owned by David Marcley, formerly of Montauk's Port Royal restaurant.

Dave's Grill has been cloaked in a coat of cedar shakes,while the inside is done in white and royal blue, retaining the original old-fashioned swivel stools. A friend, Julie Sheldon, who works in public relations in New York and is studying interior design, has contributed to the restaurant's visual and culinary "concepts."

Breakfast For 'Casters

Each item on Dave's breakfast menu has been named after a local surfcasting spot, such as Dunlap's Cove and Coconut Reef, homemade waffles with peanut butter, banana, and shreaded coconut. The lunch menu is a bit more traditional, including clams on the halfshell, posillipo, or a fried clam and flounder platter with French fries and a pickle.

"People are looking for a place like this to sit and put up their feet and have a beer," said Ms. Sheldon on Sunday at the restaurant, as reggae played softly in the background. "The dock area is very alive and people need a place where they can enjoy that."

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